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A Barefoot Contessa Cookbook

Ina and Jeffrey have been captivating our attention for years via her Food Network’s Barefoot Contessa show. I am a huge fan and many of her recipes have become staples in my home. I was at the American Library Association Annual Conference this summer, and was thrilled to get my hands on an advance copy of this cookbook. (Thanks, Sharon Parker!)

Jeffrey doesn’t cook, like some TV cooking show husbands, but he often makes appearances; he goes shopping (at times a bit hesitantly, remembering occasions when he bought the wrong thing,) or meets up with Ina at restaurants or the beach or best of all, at home.

Ina dotes on Jeffrey, and he on her – their relationship is one of the things I like best about the show. Me and a gazillion other fans, to be sure. I, too, have a husband who doesn’t really cook (okay, he makes incredible pizza but I generally make the dough, the sauce, shred the cheese and then he puts it all together and cooks it in the pizza oven he built in my backyard.) But what I really relate to is Jeffrey’s appreciation for everything Ina cooks because that is how my husband makes me feel. too.

Garten proclaims herself a home cook, but someone who owned a gourmet food shop for twenty years feels like a bit more than just a home cook to me. I do understand what she means; she doesn’t make fussy or difficult food, she prepares food that people actually like to eat at home. All of her cookbooks are wonderful and prior to this one, I would have been hard pressed to pick a favorite, but this book is truly outstanding.

It’s more than just the recipes, which are always fabulous. This book is her love letter to her husband and it shows on every page. The pictures are enchanting, including a wedding photo (they’ve been married more than 40 years!) I loved all the stories about their lives together, too.

The only quibble I have is a recipe for Roasted Meatballs, which cook for half an hour in the oven and then are transferred to a pot of marinara sauce FROM A JAR. A good jarred sauce, Rao’s is recommended, but I’m sorry, I really object to this. In the time those meatballs are cooking, you could easily make your own sauce with scarcely more work than opening a jar.

Slam a couple of cloves of garlic with a knife, thrown them in a bit of olive oil until you can smell them, dump in a can of tomatoes, a little salt and crushed red pepper and if you like, a pinch of dried oregano and you are off to the races. If you want to get fancy, dice a small onion and sweat it first, then do the garlic and tomatoes. Throw in some fresh basil when you’re ready to serve and trust me, you’ll never open another jar of sauce again. This is really a pet peeve of mine, I just don’t understand why anyone buys sauce in a jar. There seems to be some sort of fear about it and the feeling that you have to cook sauce for hours, but that’s just silly. You can make a really simple, delicious sauce in the time it takes you to cook your pasta. Or your Roasted Meatballs.

Also included are some really terrific staples like Skillet-Roasted Lemon Chicken, Brisket with Onions and Leeks, and Peach Cobbler. Then there are some newer dishes, like Roast Chicken with Radishes, Kale Salad with Pancetta and Pecorino, Salmon Tacos, and Fig and Goat Cheese Bruschettas, which are incredible.

I’m sure there will be some people who feel like Ina has stepped back to the 1950’s housewife here, and maybe she has a little, but let’s not forget that Cooking for Jeffrey is her tenth cookbook and Garten has never been “just a housewife.” She is a superstar, and I am happy to admit that I am a fan.

10/16 Stacy Alesi, AKA the BookBitch™

COOKING FOR JEFFREY by Ina Garten. Clarkson Potter (October 25, 2016). ISBN 978-0307464897. 256p.

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Simple Recipes for the Best Baking

I am a long time fan of Mark Bittman. I have given many a bride-to-be his How to Cook Everything, it’s one of my favorite basic cookbooks. With this new one, baking and all manner of desserts and breads become completely accessible.

The recipes are clearly laid out and many offer ways to change them up. For instance, Oatmeal Muffins offer several varieties, both sweet and savory, at the end of the recipe; Apple Spice Oatmeal Muffins, Oatmeal Raisin Muffins, Parsley Potatoe Muffins, Coconut Chocolate Chip Oatmeal Muffins, Whole Wheat Blueberry Oatmeal Muffins and Orange Cranberry Oatmeal Muffins.

The book is a big honker – over 700 pages, and is divided into the following sections:

Kitchen Basics
Quick Breads, Muffins and Biscuits
Pancakes, Waffles, and Doughnuts
Cookies, Brownies and Bars
Cakes
Pies, Tarts, Cobblers, and Crisps
Frozens, Puddings, and Candies
Crackers and Flatbreads
Yeast Breads
Pastry
Savory Baking
Frosting, Fillings, and Sauces
Appendix (Favorite recipes, flavor combinations, and other handy lists and charts.)

There is a comprehensive index as well. The only drawback is the complete lack of photographs. There are drawings, a harking back to days of Joy of Cooking and the Silver Palate Cookbook, but I for one have not missed the drawings, I’d much rather have photos. I understand it adds to the cost and the weight of the book, especially in one this size, but that’s my preference.

A very good cookbook for bakers, beginners through expert. This is a fine addition to the Bittman cookbook empire.

10/16 Stacy Alesi, AKA the BookBitch™

HOW TO BAKE EVERYTHING by Mark Bittman. Houghton Mifflin Harcourt; 1 edition (October 4, 2016). ISBN 978-0470526880. 704p.

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Simple, Delicious Recipes for Family and Friends

I love Jane Green. I’ve loved her books since Jemima J, which came out while I was a bookseller at Borders and I sold tons of that book, and the ones that came after. Jane was kind enough to visit my library when she was on tour a few years ago, and while we were waiting in the green room, she told me of her plans to write a cookbook. And now it is finally here!

Jane is fond of entertaining at home and even spent a few weeks at the French Culinary Institute, but she is primarily a home cook. That makes these recipes accessible and perfect for the home cook, like me. Don’t get me wrong, there are some spectacular recipes here, this is not meatloaf and mac & cheese by any means, but rather beautiful, delicious food. I’m all in on this one.

The book is divided into three sections; Beginnings, Middles, and Endings, and has about 65 recipes. Right off the bat is a fantastic Spinach and Gruyere Crustless Tart that is super easy, pretty enough for company and really good. And I really need to mention the pictures – every recipe has a beautiful photo and I’m sorry to say I really had to dig to find out who took them. Buried in the thank yous at the back of the book are photographers Tom McGovern and Kyran Tompkins, along with many of the other people who helped bring this book to fruition.

I love the little stories that accompany many of the recipes, and the pictures of Jane’s family – 5 children! And her beautiful home. These are the little touches that make this cookbook feel so intimate. Who knew that was even possible.

I tried a couple of other “Beginnings.” I love cauliflower and the Roasted Cauliflower with Olive and Lemon Vinaigrette lets that humble veggie shine. The Tomato Tarte Tatin is a snap to put together using frozen puff pastry and is simply stunning.

The “Middles” are the main events and include a lot of one pot dinners, always a favorite, like Asian Orange Chicken and several curries – Jane is from the UK, after all. The Loin of Pork Stuffed with Figs, Prosciutto and Sage is elegant yet easy. I laughed out loud at the directions for cutting the pocket, which included the hint “Think of the Muppets, and you will get the idea.” I couldn’t resist Salmon (Preferably not from the Man with the Van) Parcels with Watercress, Arugula and Cream Cheese – a great story and a great recipe. I haven’t tried it yet but Wild Mushroom Polenta – “I made this for Hugh Grant when I ended up cooking lunch for him rather than conducting our planned interview” is next on my list.

I hope you’re getting the idea of what a terrific cookbook this is.

“Endings” are desserts, of course. Almost Flourless Orange Cake with Marmalade Glaze is another spectacular and fairly simple cake. There are recipes for some classic desserts, too, like Pavlova, Chess Tart and the infamous Eton Mess. Pumpkin Gingerbread Trifle is one of the more complicated recipes here which came from her mother-in-law. You have to make the gingerbread, then the pumpkin custard and whipped cream and everything needs to be baked and cooled before being assembled. That said, Jane does offer the advice that making gingerbread from scratch is “absolutely bonkers…I would strongly advise a gingerbread mix.” Either way, it yields a beautiful dessert that can be mostly made ahead, always a plus when planning a dinner party.

As cookbooks go, this is a winner. Small enough to not be overwhelming, yet enough inspirational recipes that turn out dishes so beautiful that you’ll want to show them off. Good for all cooks, from beginners to experienced, especially anyone who loves to entertain. And a beautiful gift book, too. This is a keeper!

10/16 Stacy Alesi, AKA the BookBitch™

GOOD TASTE: Simple, Delicious Recipes for Family and Friends by Jane Green. NAL (October 4, 2016). ISBN 978-0399583377. 192p.