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Bake All Your Favorites with 30% to 50% Less Sugar

I am a long time fan of Christopher Kimball and the company he founded, America’s Test Kitchen. I had heard they were working on this cookbook, I think on the podcast, which, weirdly, I like even more than the PBS TV show. So when I saw an advance copy in the Random House booth at the American Library Association annual conference, I grabbed it (with permission, I’m not a book thief!)

My husband is diabetic and I don’t like using artificial sweeteners, so I was definitely interested. I am happy to report that they do not use chemical sweeteners or even Stevia, but rather sugar substitutes like honey and molasses, coconut sugar and one I’d never heard of, Sucanat, which Google tells me is “(an abbreviation for sugar-cane-natural) and has a stronger molasses flavor than refined white sugar and retains all of the nutrients found in natural sugar cane juice, including iron, calcium, vitamin B6 and potassium.” That appealed to me, so I purchased it from Amazon.

I haven’t had a chance to use it yet, but I have made a few of the recipes in the book. I tried the No Fuss Banana Ice Cream. It had no added sugar but rather frozen bananas blended and mixed with unsweetened cocoa. It wasn’t bad, sort of tasted like a banana split, but wasn’t fantastic.

I then made the Chocolate Pudding Cake. This also had no added sugar, just the sugar in the half a pound of semi-sweet chocolate that’s in the recipe. I used half bittersweet, half semi-sweet and it also had Dutch-process cocoa powder. I wasn’t sure I was going to like it, the batter had a bitter taste to it. It was made like most pudding cakes, if you’ve ever made one, in that you make a thick batter, then pour boiling water over the top before baking. It smelled amazing, the whole house smelled like chocolate. The finished product was pretty good, I thought it could have used a little sugar but I guess that would have defeated the point. It was very chocolaty and had streaks of a not very sweet pudding throughout, but it was the the little pockets where the chopped chocolate had been mixed in that gave it its deliciousness. This recipe took the usual 34 grams of sugar down about a third, so still not that low but certainly better.

The best thing I made was the blueberry pie, it was amazing, albeit a little messy. There was no added sugar either, which makes it even more miraculous. Instead, some of the fresh fruit is cooked down and that is used to sweeten the pie and it worked beautifully. Blueberry pie is one of my husband’s favorite desserts so he was absolutely thrilled with this.

The chapters:

Muffins, Quickbreads & Breakfast Treats
Cookies & Bars
Cakes
Pies & Tarts
Fruit Desserts
Puddings, Custards & Frozen Treats

I’ve noticed in some of the online reviews comments from people who were upset that butter and cream were commonly used ingredients. This is a baking cookbook, not a diet cookbook, people! It is a low sugar cookbook and that is quite a different thing.

As usual, America’s Test Kitchen has done a terrific job. If you like your desserts less sweet than what you typically get, or are cutting back on sugar for whatever your reasons, take a look at this book. I’m glad I did. Up next: chocolate chip cookies!

9/16 Stacy Alesi, AKA the BookBitch™

NATURALLY SWEET by America’s Test Kitchen. America’s Test Kitchen; 1 edition (August 23, 2016). ISBN 978-1940352589. 336p.

The Science of Great Barbecue and Grilling

with Greg Blonder, Ph.D.

Several years ago, my husband and I decided we were tired of going out for ribs and wanted to try making them at home. We had a beautiful Weber gas grill that cost more than my stove did and we wanted to use it.

So I Googled the “best ribs” recipe. There were several recipes, Google is nothing if not generous with its results. But one intrigued me with its title, “Last Meal Ribs” on a website called AmazingRibs.com. I clicked through and found Meathead.

This wasn’t just a recipe. It was a story. And I loved that in the list of ingredients he included:

1 sauce brush, preferably one of those newfangled silicon jobs

1 good digital oven thermometer

1 six pack of beer (for the cook, not the meat)

1 lawn chair

1 good book and plenty of tunes

With links to places to buy these things, and reviews and recommendations. And best of all, detailed instructions on how to do everything necessary to make the best ribs. We’ve never looked back, and a couple of times a year we make these ribs. They come out perfect every time, and that’s all I can ask for.

The website has grown tremendously over the years and so has Meathead’s reputation. (And yes, that is his name. I believe he legally changed it.)

So the cookbook. That legendary recipe is in here, minus the beer, chair, and tunes. But this book is about half science, half cooking because the art of barbecue is really all about the science behind it. Meathead looks at all the myths we’ve heard over the years…

“The more smoke the better.”

“Soak wood chips and chunks for the most smoke.”

“Searing meat seals in the juices.”

“Cook chicken until the juices run clear.”

Then he goes about scientifically disproving them, and explaining the right way to do things. Listen to the man, he really did his homework.

Interestingly, the forward is written by another science forward chef, J. Kenji Lopez-Alt, “Serious Eats” food blogger and author of one of my favorite cookbooks, reviewed here – The Food Lab.

The Table of Contents is seven pages long. Here are the chapters:

The Science of Heat
Smoke
Software
Hardware
Brines, Rubs, and Sauces
Pork
Beef
Ground Meats: Burgers, Hot Dogs, and Sausages
Lamb
Chicken and Turkey
Seafood
Sides

Just looking at this list, you can see this is not your typical cookbook, at least not for the first 150 pages. There is a lot of science here, but also a lot of humor, making it quite easy to digest. The recipes are really delicious and they work. I favor the Memphis Dust rub for my ribs, but how can you not love a recipe called “Simon & Garfunkel Rub” that starts off with the explanation, “Parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme make a pretty good song as well as an all-purpose rub for pork, turkey, and chicken.”

There are tons of pictures, and not just the beauty shots of the food. For instance, Meathead recommends trimming and skinning racks of ribs, and there are step by step instructions with photographs, making it super easy to see how to do it. There is a great photo of “Brats simmered in dyed beer” that beautifully illustrates that a simmering liquid never gets any deeper than the outer 1-2 mm. There is a photo of a whole, unpeeled tenderloin (you’ve seen them at Costco) along with photos of it broken down into the tenderloin tips, Chateaubriand, and the chain. Alton Brown tried to explain this to me in his two part episode of Good Eats, “Tender is the Loin” but I have to tell you, this picture is worth a thousand words. I finally got it. And Meathead, like Lopez-Alt, is a big fan of the reverse sear, especially for such an expensive cut of meat.

Lest you were thinking, why do I need a science-y cookbook for ribs, I’ll tell you. There is way more to this book than just that. Want to cook a whole hog? Got you covered. Make a “Momofuku-inspired Ramen Bowl?” It’s here for you. Want to know what’s in a “Binghamton Spiedie Sandwich”? Grill a turkey or a lobster? Hot smoke salmon? How about impressing your guests with “Championship Bacon-Wrapped Stuffed Shrimp”? This is the book for you!

Labor Day is in few days. I’m going to try out those stuffed shrimp and then go to my fallback, the Last Meal Ribs made with Memphis Dust rub. Maybe with a side of  slaw – yeah, that’s in there, too.

8/16 Stacy Alesi, AKA the BookBitch™

MEATHEAD by Meathead Goldwyn. Rux Martin/Houghton Mifflin Harcourt (May 10, 2016). ISBN 978-0544018464. 400p.